Travels of Yili, beautiful Xinjiang
There is bright sunshine and the vast sky,the grassland stretched beyond what the human eye could see.Seems to be relax at last.
There is calm lake,colorful flower,vast prairie.It is too quiet to sensed more of the power of life.
There is delicious skewer,big set chicken,pepper chicken,naan pit meat, the hand pilaf,nana bread,renglik samsa,Wusu beer and Kvass.The atmosphere of family reunion let you eat without scruple.
There are many lovely children with big eyes.wrapped in a veil of mystery women,like Mohammad’s uncle.In fact,they are very kind,their smile will make you relax.
Here is the North of Xinjiang.
Here is Lake Sayram,Tex,Kalajun,Qiongku Shitai,Tangbula,Bayanbulak.
Here is Old Kashgar.
Travels of Yili, beautiful Xinjiang
Itinerary date:24th May-5th June
This is the second time to travel the North of Xinjiang. The different geomorphic characteristics of Hemu and Kanas what i saw,I was forgiven for a little nostalgic,so at last,I did not hesitate to choose here between Tibet and Xinjiang. Only this time in different season,different people,different scenery and different feeling.
24th May,starting from Shenzhen,carrying a 65L bag and a 35L backpackto the airport by subway.The journey for one month is beginning,but i am not so excited by the complex state of mind .I hope the new journey will make me quiet and calm down.From the small window,seeing the crescent and sunset ,i feel so good.I am really on the road.
The plane arrived in Urumqi already nearly the early morning,the booked hotel near the airport.The first arrival of team mate has already checked in the hotel.It is also very convenient for the car service by the hotel.
P.S A lot of road works in Urumqi led to the traffic congestion.It is not convenient from downtown to airport,if you do not to go shopping in the city,the best choice is to choose a hotel near the airport when transferring to other areas more convenient.
25th May Urumqi to Sayram Lake
Early in the morning i eat breakfast in a eating store which is next to the hotel.meet all teammates,sigh the contract with the car driver.After breakfast,we get on the bus .It is about 600km distance from Urumqi to Sayram Lake.The weather is so good and clear that I feel the sunshine going through my heart.
P.S The traffic in Xinjiang is very good,but there is a road speed limit ,some road speed limit to 30.There are many places with moitoring points and so many cameras,so Xinjiang local cars are equipped with radar installations,but for the foreign cars,if you are not familiar with this estimated,you will get the worst of it.
Is the cloud going to fall?It looks like the cotton candy.
More than two thousand meters above sea level,Sayram Lake is located in the north of theTianshan Mountains.The surface of the lake is quiet,and there are snow-capped mountains in the distance and flowers flourish nearby,for people feeling clean in it immediately.It is so early to arrive the lake.At the end of May,the gold flower is not flourishing,but people feel easy and refreshing because of few tourists traveling.I really like the quiet here and feel so happy for drinking tea in the lawn with teammates.
The Sayram Lake has many love storys,so a more humane feelings.Many lovers meet here,I admire their happiness when looking back them.
As a vase lake,the Sayram showing different visual feelings in different angles.The lake looks calm and deep,as if you can not go to consider its internal.The sunset of Sayram is very beautiful,but the temperature downhill at night,we must prepare for the weather,even thin section of a down jacket and charge garments are necessary.Xinjiang has jet lag for two hours,especially in this season,the sunset at about ten o’clock.So in these 10 days, the reverse time, like our team name as, “forget the time clock, needle point of time as if for us not too much significance. We only know the sunrise and sunset.
P.S There are basically felt rooms in the internal and external of the Sayram Lake.But the felt room are different size with bad sound insulation and wind effects.Cold and damp at night,so it is necessary to take a sleeping bag.The food is very expensive in the scenic spots.Now the price of Xinjiang is also changed ,the cheapest Xinjiang noodles is nearly RMB15,maybe ranging from RMB20-50 in the scenic spots.RMB90 for a kilo of mtton,but a plate of noodles was just RMB8 few years ago.
In the evening we gave up the education hotel which booked before that, and changed to check in another nearby hotel which the driver recommended.The price of hotel was reasonable,the homeowner showed the attitude of enthusiasm,the felt room and bedding were clean ,the room sound insulation effect was not good which could hear a clear sound of restlessness in the yurt next door in the morning.
We lived in a yurt at the foot of the mountain,climbing the hill,while overlooking the other side of lake,can seeing the snow capped mountains.
Even if the sky is clear and the sun is shining,but the light is more clear next morning,the more beautiful Sayram Lake glows with its charming color.The lake inside and outside,near the snow mountain,accompanied by flowers,people walking in it,this scene is beyond words.
The sky is not clear enough at the first day,the distance snow mountains as if enveloped in a layer of mist.
We must entrance into the Sayram Lake from the gate of the scenic spot,so need to buy tickets.The next day because of not in a hurry,reentry area,in a lawn around two hours.The sky becomes more transparent than the day before yesterday,and there are more people and car teams starting to come in.Many wedding people take photos in the lake,see the swans and horses in another place.
It is very suitable for one person in a daze.When I was wandering around the Sayram Lake,there are some people walking alone by the lake and some people sitting around the flowerbeds.If not the limited time,I would like to stay here for a few days.
There are more yellow,white,purple,bule flowers and few red flowers in the Sayram Lake. Two or three kinds of yellow flowers,different from the petals,some like the chrysanthemum but small,some like the number of wintersweet petals,some two layers of different outer and inner ring.
Early in the morning,the beam of light on the surface of the lake,like diamond.
Out of the Sayram Lake, passing fruit valley.
Enter into Schaller.More than ten days in Xinjiang,I saw a lot of nice place names.For example:Lake Sayram,Tex,Kalajun,Qiongku Shitai,Tangbula,Bayanbulak and so on.Schaller was an important post in ancienttimes with geomorphology diversity,the ancient glacier Mozart is located in one of them.For this traveling,we take a carriage and then walk to the glacier.The nice scenery make people feel so happy with the “Christmas tree” towering mountains and colorful flowers on the meadow.
Arriving at Schaller in the evening, the sunset reflected in the distant mountains.
Sometimes for a different angle to see the world, is another kind of scenery.As we used to take photos by front light,but sometimes backlight is also very beautiful.
When I see the twilight, I think of the song, as in the song:
- Twilight burns the sun.
- Pushing me over.
- Love is a warm light.
- Twilight of the brilliant sunset.
- Until the night is illuminated.
- I use a smile to greet the beautiful light.
- I found your eyes.
P.S It is closed from Zhaosu into Schaller,but the road closure of Zhaosu at that time,and then we change to go to Turks.So it is better to ask the roads information before going to.Perhaps the roadside traffic police do not know the road situation,you can call the local traffic bureau to confirm.
The herdsmen’s children are very lovely.We rent their carriage,in fact the carriage is a white horse carrying a flatbed truck.The white horse was so tired for carrying seven of us that its body sweat flowing down straight.
On the way,there are many fat but cute marmot, we met one marmot on the Duku road.
The carriage carried us here,and then we started to walk until arrived the glacier,it cost about five hours for back and forth.
The road at the foot,but we often lose ourselves.When we look back at the time of being lost,maybe we can calm down to let ourselves know the way of our own.Especially in the case of bifurcation intersection at a loss, we need faith more than ever.
Across the front of the woods,as if the snow mountains in touch,in fact,you will find there is a long way to go on walking.people are often cheated by illusions of the surface.There is no infighting between people,no competition and conflict.So each of us can laugh so calm.I believe that everyone is really happy at the moment.
We are more and more closer to the snow mountains.Passed the colorful meadow.
The more closer place,the more swamp.Decided to stop here.
Walked back over the same route with the flowers accompanying,found that we had walked a long way unconsciously.
Soon to leave ,could not help but look back.We are just people,has so many things which can not let go.We always have a lot of enthusiasm to miss the past.but as if whether the way to the road or back,has been walking in the front,eyes are also faceing the front.
Left Schaller and our next station was Kalajun.Before starting on the Kalajun inscription has learned the news, may not be able to enter the scenic area.At last,we linked to a park ranger, let them take us into the area.Coincided with the support of offical inspection,we could only stay in Gaza Strip.Because of the droughts,Kalajun did not imagine so beautiful.Although had a litte regret,but due to the forest ranger and herdsmen familiar,we were able to communicate with the local herdsmen.Ate the yoghurt and milk lump at their home.Although the milk sour at the first time,but it tastes so delicious.Then drank fresh and hot milk,it was really very nice.
The local people honest, hospitable, but slightly shy. Although the language is different,but say “hello” to them,they will warmly welcome you.
On the way to Shitai chonku,after going though a dust dirt road,then gradually green.The landscape diversity of Xinjiang,that is one of the main reason i like here.Dicersity,colorful,multi-ethnic,multi species,they are really colorful.
One scenic spot is called for a eighteen bend,but this one is not the one.
lived in a teacher’s house,in the yard I saw a pug.
Walking on the road of Osun,just seeing a group of nomadic transitions,The horses carrying the material,seem to see the past people busy before.
Because of the rain in the afternoon,we could only stay in the cabin to play mobile phone.I did not know how long it rained,suddenly heard screamed outside,ran out to look,there was a double rainbow.So close to see the rainbow, very excited.
The temperature droped after raining,
The sky was very clear after rainning,the sun was shining on the second day .We felt so happy and walked to the top of the mountain.
The early morning light cross the gap of mountains and the forest , casts on the green meadow at last.The fresh green makes people comfortable,breathing the fresh and grassy air,walking on the quiet dirt road,as if being in another world.I love the light of the different levels so much.
The pieces of green appeared again in Nalati ,we had to exclaim the beautiful scenery and cherish this present from the nature.
Travel was always short ,we must leave at last.The beauty of Shitai chonku beyond our imagination,it brought us too many surprise.We also saw a lot of beautiful scenery on the way home,went to the herdsmen’s home,ate milk knots,fresh milk and yogurt.Although the language are different,the herdsmen are very hospitable and very easy to close.
Every day the beauty of the Shitai chonku here has charmed countless visitors.Sometimes cheering,sometimes being quiet suddenly,mayhe it had sprinkled our life with stardust.Originally we are all visitors and can not put a lot of things down in our heart.We are only temporary escape from the impetuous.But even if it is just a little peace and quiet,we are willing to come for it.
We were cross the Jiuqu eigheteen bend when leaving the Shitai chonku.The scenery is another color for another feel.
Passing a special sand hill on the way back .
Back to the Turks again,this is the fourth time to eat in the street.The store was making the marinated lamb kebabs.
All on the road as if not in Xinjiang.The unknown trees on the two roadsides are green,like we being in Jiangnan.The color of the tree let us feel the cherry blossom.
The same is on the road,but the scenery is different.
Arrived in Narat grassland
We are so surprised that the green grassland is endless.
The Nalati is built for years with perfect surroundings.We need to take a shuttle bus to enter into the scenic spot which has two routes for taking apart.
It is another surprise when riding on theancient road.After entering into the scenery,we find the scenic spot is protected very good,except thetourist distributing center.Riding a small link for one hour by spending RMB80.But at last gave the stable boy RMB100,because of his good and simple what I like.
From Nalati to Bayinbuluk,the scenery on the road becomes normal.We saw many black sheep.
Arrived in Bayan town
After checking in hotel, we ate a Xinjiang hand pilaf which had raisin in it,then went to the scenic spot.
Bayinbuluk is really a disappointing scenic spot.Swan Lake is very small,but in the surrounding built a large piece of plank,a few swans frolicking in the water. It is said that the true Swan Lake in another place,no entry.Because of drought,the vast desert,nothing can be enjoyed in the scenic spot.The Juqu eighteen bends in the depths of the scenic spots, it is necessary to take the shuttle bus to go there, first to Swan Lake, stay for half an hour or so, and then the car about 45 minutes to a parking lot, then walk for at least half an hour to reach 18 curved of scenic spots. Tickets are not cheap. We confirm with the ticket office staff can see the swan and the eighteen bend spots before deciding to buy a ticket to enter.
We really saw the swans,but there were only two swans in the lake,someone said another seven swans flied far away.We also saw the Jiuqu eighteen bend.The weather was not very good,so the sunset was not so shocking.
Seeing the burning clouds in the bus, people asked the driver to stop there for viewing ,but the driver did not listen to take like having a deaf ear.
Left he Bayan,went to Cholma and Tangbula.At any time we could see the herdsmen grazing and a large number of sheep and horses on the road.
Went into the forest area,saw many beautiful scenery on the road,then began to cross the mountain.
Over the mountains,then closer to Qiaoerma.The green reappered and made our eyes light up.
The Duku Road ,like a dragon dish lying tianshan.The full-length 561km,connecting the north and south of Xinjiang road,lie the mountains,through the canyon in the mountains,connecting many ethenic minorities inhabited areas.It makes the border of Northe and South shorter from 1000km to nearly half,it is called a monument in the history of China’s highway construction.In order to build this road then,the tens of thousands of soldiers fighting for ten years,including 148 road soldiers sacrificed their precious lives.
Arrived in Tangbula ,the roadside scenery is pleasant,not all of the beautiful scenery in the so-called scenic spots.Many places along the road,perhaps more natural and pure.
As the DukuRoad has not yet officially opened,we gave the crossing supervisor RMB200 for two cars entering .But when we drived half of the distance,local construction site were forced us to charge RMB50 for each car.This thing happened in two places,it was a bad experience in our travel.
In the oil city of Dushanzi delicacy square ,we enjoyed delicious food.
The second day we went to the Dushanzi Grand Canyon,that was a free scenery.we just had too many free time ,so visited there and it is really a long dirt road.But when we were at there,felt that it was worth to visit,we were amazing the nature.
To be the last station in Xinjiang Yili Line,we were also in good spirit.Looking at these two people jumping.
After returning to Urumqi,said goodbye with my teammates,went to the South of Kashi lonely.Many people said it was very dangerous in the south of Kashi,made me a little worried.Even the local taxi driver told me that did not hang around and did not go to the Uighur areas.
Kashi airport is very small. The airport bus can take you to any place in the city if you spend RMB10,and the bus driver will carry you to the hotel entrance.The bus driver saw me carrying a big bag and asked if I came to travel.After sent other passengers to the destination, he took me shopping around the city of Kashi.Finally,took me to the old city of Kashi international tours,he was so kind.Later,from the old city to the airport,I called the driver to meet me again.
Kashi urban area is not large,the purpose of this travel is to go to the old cit of Kashi and the mosque.the old city of Kashi international tours is near the mosque, full of rich flavor of uygur.Tin shop, Uygur clothing store, bakery, Nang mart, mutton shop, craft shops, ice cream shops and so on indigenous.Because at that time,because of a church ,I could not enter the mosque,I stayed outside for a long time.Devout towards the sun sat on the floor, the mouth levied, or a person or two or three people whisper meditation.School children through here, naivete smile was so cute,said hello to them, and they took a group photo, they did not have a little timid, but with a little shy, gave them a photo, they were very happy to see the image of their own.
The old city of Kashi is not far from the mosque, walking across the street into another street.Did not seea encounter to let me buy tickets.Helpedmyself to go into a small alley inside.It’s really like a maze.Well-proportioned Road, alley deep unknown. Suddenly, it was possible to see the curious child or a tightly wrapped Uighur woman in a corner.
At the moment,Children would put POSEconsciously when you lift your camera.There were some competing for you to take a picture with them, lovely, warm, as if they had become accustomed to.
Kashgar old city is in the repair of large area,I can’t imagine after the break of the old city,if it is also called “old”.there are a lot of dilapidated houses were demolished.The mottled trace will only stay on the wall of an old house.
In the ancient city, the weather is good in the morning or afternoon, you can see the shadow of the ancient city staged in the shadow of fantasy.Here seems to be another vision.Quiet time seems to slow down.The ancient city of the people some smiling, some women’s eyes showed some self-assured or supercilious, alert. Maybe we’re disturbing their peace.
Children are the most easy to communicate in here. Love their naivete, reminds me of my childhood and his playmates, think grandma’s old courtyard.
The ancient city has two view lights, even if you get lost in the ancient city,you are also not afraid, always come out of a small alley.Take it easy, in Kashi, I did not feel the fear. A lot of people are very warm and hospitable.
Of course, some children are shy, but their smile also on their face.
This beauty know that i was taking photographsto her,pretending to be calm.
Should be a strict teacher in the rebuke of the boy who is not obedient.
The second morning,into the ancient city again,encounteredschool children.
The ancient city of women in general to maintain a sense of mystery, tightly wrapped, or depth.
26th May Sayram to Yining
Saw the sunset on the Yili bridge.The setting sun is about 9:45 in the evening.I spent about RMB12 from the urban area to the old bridge by taxi.The Yili River from the bridge under the flow, there is a free park nearby, which is full of variety and small stalls.Here is a good place for the local people to take a walk after dinner.
27th May Yining -Zhaosu-Schaller
The way to Zhaosu from Yining was closed,so later went back from Turks to Schaller.The Turks, the famous “nosy city”without a red light.Lunch in shijie.Then we had four ways from different places or in the Turks which was the main visible.My hotel was near the food street.Xinjiang hand pilaf for RMB15,lamb shashilik for RMB2 and cold drink for RMB 6.